Each Culinary Artist Ought to Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.